Tips from Kurt Lauber

Kurt Lauber has been a mountain guide and ski instructor in Switzerland and abroad for more than 30 years. He has years of experience as the hut warden at the famous Hörnlihütte at the foot of the Matterhorn and is also the author of the bestselling book, "Der Wächter des Matterhorns" (The Custodian of the Matterhorn).

Kurt's advice for the women:

A Matterhorn ascent is and always will be a serious undertaking; not everything can be planned or foreseen. Physically, you must prepare yourself well beforehand, but you will still need a touch of luck for the ascent itself. The weather has to be right, but above all the conditions need to be good enough, otherwise things can quickly become precarious and dangerous. The mountain has to permit you to ascend it. You cannot force either the mountain or the ascent. I'm sure it will all go well for you, and the Matterhorn ascent will be one of the most thrilling adventures of your life.

I wish you all the very best of luck, I hope you have a fantastic day and above all - Enjoy it!       

A word of advice:

Divide the ascent up into stages and only think about the next specific goal:

   1. Goal  >  Solveyhütte

   2. Goal  >  Shoulder

   3. Goal  >  Summit

   4. Goal  >  Solveyhütte

   5. Goal  >  Hörnlihütte

Don't forget - The summit is neither the final goal nor the end of the route; it’s important to get back to the valley.

On the day of the ascent, when you're getting dressed at 4 am in the Hörnlihütte, don’t put on lots of layers as you'll be warm soon enough because the route is sheltered from the wind.

Plan at least one day of rest before the ascent.

Ideally, recce with the mountain guide the first 200 metres of the Hörnli ridge that you’ll be climbing in the dark.

With best regards

Kurt Lauber