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Täschhorn (4,491 m a.s.l.)

The Täschhorn belongs to the Mischabel group, and is one of the most difficult four-thousand metre summits to climb in Valais. Due to the demanding normal route (Mischabel Ridge), this summit is relatively rarely climbed. The Täschhorn is a three-sided pyramid. The East Face protrudes above Saas Fee, the West Face is above Täsch and the South Face above the Täschalp (Ottavan). 

Origin of the name 
The Täschhorn received its name from the mountain village of „Täsch“, which lies at its foot. 

History / Legends 
Three steep ridges, three rugged walls with a bold geometry formidably shaped to a towering pyramid. There is no doubt at all that the Täschhorn is a giant among the Alpine summits. Its fearsome South Face – although very rarely climbed – is regarded as one of the greatest and most dangerous challenges in the Alps. The legendary Franz Lochmatter was the first to climb it, at almost 19 years of age. Due to the continuing rise in temperature in the Alps and the associated increase in the danger of falling rocks, it hardly figures at all in the repertoire of the great climbs any more, it would be tempting God. Although the Dom towers above the neighbouring Täschhorn by 55 metres, the latter has a much more powerful stature and dominates the whole Mischabel chain. All its routes are, of course, correspondingly long, and, even when they are not too tricky, command great respect from their length alone. The ascent from the Domhütte cabin over the North-west Face used to be described as the normal route. This route has lost a lot of its attractiveness, however. Today’s normal route is the more interesting and shorter South-east Ridge starting from the Mischabeljoch Bivouac.

Hight

4,491 m a.s.l.

First climbed

31th July 1862

First climbed by

Stefan Zumtaugwald, Johann Zumtaugwald, J. Llewelyn Davies, J. W. Hayward, Peter-Josef Summermatter

 



First climbed

The Täschhorn was first climbed on the 30th July 1862 by Stefan and Johann Zumtaugwald, J. Llewelyn Davies, J. W. Hayward and Peter-Josef Summermatter via the North-west Face, known as the Kin Face, starting directly from Randa.
In 1876, J. Jackson crossed the South-east ridge with the mountain guides Christian and Ulrich Almer. This is the normal route to the summit today.

 

Alexander Burgener, Joseph Andenmatten and the English couple Mary and Albert Mummery climbed the “Teufelsgrat (Devil’s Ridge = South-west Ridge)” in 1887.
Franz and Josef Lochmatter climbed through the steep South Face of the Täschhorn together with the Englishmen V. J. Ryan and Geoffrey Winthrop Young.

Information for hikers

Different hiking tips with a view of the mountain

From the Kinhütte cabin to the rear Kin Glacier

Information for excursions

Short, easy walks or hikes

From the Kinhütte cabin, you have the most beautiful view of the Weisshorn and the surrounding four-thousand metre summits.

Information for mountaineers / alpinists

Valley location

Randa (1,407 m a.s.l.)
Ottavan (2,214 m a.s.l.)
Täsch (1,450 m a.s.l.)

Starting point

Domhütte cabin (2,940 m a.s.l.)
Kinhütte cabin (2,584 m a.s.l.)
Täschhütte cabin (2,701 m a.s.l.)
Mischabeljoch Bivouac (3,847 m a.s.l.)

Various routes

North-west Face (Kin Face)
Difficulty: ZS, II (French scale: AD; with II. UIAA level rock climbing)
Time required: 6 hours
Starting point: Domhütte cabin (2,940 m a.s.l.) or Kinhütte cabin (2,584 m a.s.l.)
Valley location: Randa (1,407 m a.s.l.)

Mischabeljoch
Difficulty: ZS-, II (French scale: AD-; with II. UIAA level rock climbing)
Time required: 4 hours
Starting point: Täschhütte cabin (2,701 m a.s.l.)
Valley location: Ottavan (2,214 m a.s.l.)

Mischabel Ridge
Difficulty: ZS, III (French scale: AD; with III. UIAA level rock climbing)
Time required: 4 hours
Starting point: Mischabeljoch Bivouac (3,847 m a.s.l.)
Valley location: Täsch (1,450 m a.s.l.)

West-Southwest Ridge (Teufelsgrat / Devil’s Ridge)
Difficulty: S+, IV (French scale: D+; with IV. UIAA level rock climbing)
Time required: 12-14 hours
Starting point: Täschhütte cabin
Valley location: Ottavan

Refreshment areas / mountain cabins

Kinhütte cabin (2,584 m a.s.l.)



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