Dom (4,545 m a.s.l.)
The Dom is a massive and impressive mountain in the central axis of the Mischabel group, lying between the Täschhorn and the Lenzspitze. It is the highest mountain in Switzerland that lies completely on Swiss territory and, after Mont Blanc and the Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze, Nordend, Zumstein and Signalkuppe), is the third highest summit in the Alps. It can also be climbed on skis. The first ascent on skis was carried out on the 18th July 1917 by the Briton Sir Arnold Lunn, together with the mountain guide Joseph Knubel, the first person to climb the North Face of the Eiger.
Origin of the name
The mountain is said to have been named in honour of the Canon of Sion, Joseph Anton Berchtold, who was the first to survey the Mischabel group (1833).
History / Legends
„It has always been regarded as a great honour to be the first to set his foot on the proud head of the Mischabel. According to a legend, however, this honour does not belong to a mountaineer of recent years: The Mischabel had been climbed long before. This was, of course a very long time ago – before anyone kept a diary – by a man who feared neither God nor the devil. This bold soul had set his mind on climbing the Mischabel. He casually ignored all the warnings, and soon set off from Saas-Fee on the dangerous path, only carrying what was absolutely necessary and a sheaf of straw. He climbed over boulders and rocks as nimble as a mountain goat, crossing glacier crevasses and climbing ever higher and higher. After three days, he reaches a point where he could go no further. On the snow-covered peak that is now known as the Dom, he lit a straw fire that could be seen far way in the Saas and Mattertal valley. That was his last sign of life, because nobody ever saw his face again.“ (After Otto Supersaxo).
4,545 m a.s.l.
11th September 1858
First climbed by
J. Llewellyn Davies, Johann Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig, Hieronymous Brantschen
Different hiking tips with a view of the mountain
Gamsweg (Rothorn paradise – Kumme - Ritzengrad)
Mountain railway offers
Information about the various peaks
You will obtain the best view of the Dom from Rothorn paradise.
Short, easy walks or hikes
Peak Collection hike
Saas-Fee (1,803 m a.s.l.)
Mischabeljoch Bivouac (3,851 m a.s.l.)
The normal route leads from Randa (1,407 m a.s.l.) in the Mattertal valley, initially over hiking trails and secured steps to the Domhütte cabin (2,940 m a.s.l.). The real altitude tour begins from there. The Festijoch is reached over the Festi Glacier, from where the rather difficult Festigrat Ridge leads to the summit. The normal ascent, however, takes place via the technically easier, but objectively more dangerous (due to glacier crevasses) route over the Hohberg Glacier. From both routes, the summit is reached via a narrow, exposed Firngrat (snow ridge).
Refreshment areas / mountain cabins
Domhütte cabin (2,940 m a.s.l.)
|Mountain guides-Experiences / Tips||There are more than 1,600 metres of altitude to be mastered, and the descent through the counter-ascent on the Festijoch and the very slippery moraine is also very long. Falling rocks can be expected in particular when climbing down the Festijoch on the south side. You descend for a long time next to the steep rocky face, from which even huge boulders can break out. The glacier on the north side can be very tricky, and its crevasses are deep. The route leads over this glacier for a considerable time. Here too, and above all when descending, you can find snow conditions that are significantly worse than those during the ascent. The col is not difficult from a technical point of view, but nevertheless requires extreme caution. Not all the fixed ropes can be trusted, and some are very tattered. During the descent, the rock is sometimes damp or wet. |
The exit from the "Wall" is extremely slippery in the afternoon, and a fall would lead directly into the mountain crevasse. You are therefore well advised to fit your crampons while still in the rock face. In the lower part of the North Face, there is an area to be passed that is endangered by large seracs lying above it. Particularly during the descent, you should pass through this area as quickly as possible and without stopping and talking.