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*Zermatt / Matterhorn

Dufourspitze (4,634 m. a. s. l.)

The Dufour peak is the highest summit in Switzerland and one of the nine main summits of the Monte Rosa Massif. It competes with the Dom, the highest mountain located entirely on Swiss soil. The 150 year anniversary was celebrated in 2005: Federal Councillor Joseph Deiss, together with Zermatt mountain guides who were descendants from the first conquerors of the mountain, climbed from the old Monte Rosa cabin to the peak in a seven hour tour. There he met up with the Italian minister of agriculture Giovanni Alemanno. 

Origins of the name
The name Gornerhorn and Höchste Spitze (highest peak) were the common names for the Dufour peak until the forties of the last century. The eponym was the Austrian general and topographer Ludwig von Welden. Based on the accomplishments of General Dufour regarding cartography, the Federal Council decided in 1863 on application of renowned alpinists and SAC-members to rename the mountain Dufourspitze (Dufour peak).

History/Legend
General Guillaume-Henri Dufour not only rendered outstanding services in terms of cartography with his Dufour map. The work was created from 1845 – 1865, earned worldwide recognition and was consecrated at the Paris world fair in 1855. Dufour achieved eminence during the Swiss Civil War, the last war fought on Swiss soil (1847) which lasted only 27 days, by making humanitarian principles of warfare a maxim. Dufour was a co-founder of the International Committee of the Red Cross. 

Elevation

4,634 m. a. s. l.

First ascent

1 August 1855

First conquerors

Charles Hudson, John Birbeck, Christopher Smyth, James G. Smyth, Edward J.W. Stevenson, Ulrich Lauener, Johannes Zumtaugwald, Matthäus Zumtaugwald

The first ascent took place on 1 August 1855 by a rope team lead by Charles Hudson. Hudson was one of the first conquerors of the Matterhorn where he became the victim of a fatal accident. The rope team included John Birkbeck, Edward J.W. Stephenson and the brothers Christopher and James G. Smyth.


Information for hikers

Various hiking tips with views of the mountain

Hike from Gornergrat to the new Monte Rosa cabin

Cabins en route/picnic

Gornergrat, new Monte Rosa cabin

Mountain railway offers

With the Gornergrat-Bahn Zermatt-Rotenboden-Zermatt

Information for excursionists

Information about the various peaks

The most magnificent views of the Dufour peak can be enjoyed from Gornergrat
With the Gornergrat-Bahn Zermatt-Gornergrat-Zermatt

Short, easy walks or hikes

 

Rotenboden-Riffelberg

 

Information for mountaineers/alpinists

Valley

Alagna Valsesia (1,190 m. a. s. l.)
Zermatt (1,620 m. a. s. l.)

Point of departure

Rifugio Regina Margherita (4,554 m. a. s. l.)
New Monte Rosa cabin (2,795 m. a. s. l.)

Various routes

From the Monte Rosa cabin via the saddle and W ridge (ZS-/3a)
From Rifugio Regina Margherita via the SE ridge (ZS, 3a)
From the peak to Silbersattel
From the Capanna Marinelli via the Marinelli Couloir through the E face (S/4a)
From the Monte Rosa cabin via the S crest, Cresta Rey (ZS+/3a)

Board/
Mountain cabins

Rifugio Regina Margherita (4,554 m. a. s. l.)
New Monte Rosa cabin (2,795 m. a. s. l.)



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