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Mammut Fixed-Rope Route, Zermatt

Climbing the ‘Schweifine‘ Mammut fixed-rope route high above the roofs of Zermatt is a guaranteed adventure at airy heights. The route, which affords a magnificent view of the surrounding mountain scenery, offers three different levels of difficulty. Mountain guides can be hired to assist the climbers.

Route A ascends diagonally on the left on rocky-earthy terrain. The dead-end path branching off to the abseil spot (guide required) is followed by a beautiful exposed section high above the Triftbach stream, which brings you to ‘Beresinahütte im Pudel’. From here, Route B descends via a scarp featuring old stone steps. Alternatively, climbers may follow this section of Route B, which will take them above the vertical Turuwang to Route C. However, most climbers will descend along Route A through a tree-covered band to the point where Route B forks off to the left; this used to be the way to Beresinahütte. Behind the fork, Route A continues to descend to the foot of the mountain wall.
Now take Route B, ascend the smooth, vertical and sometimes overhanging wall, using the rope ladder at the top – the crux of the tour. Subsequently, descend the very exposed traverse over mostly vertical terrain, which includes some lightly swaying logs. This is followed by the final ascent and exit from Turuwang to Turuwäldchen where Route B and C fork out. However, the continuation on Route C is even more beautiful, but also more challenging. This is followed by a descending traverse, along a band and through trenches, before the mighty rock step takes you up high up. In some places,this requires the use of both arms. You will exit on a shoulder and traverse up the valley. In early summer, there is a beautiful waterfall. This is followed by another, partly vertical, rock step. A steel cable ladder brings a bit of variation to the route, which ends at an altitude of around 2110 metres. Route A can be done separately (ideal for families with children over 10).

Difficulty ratings
K5 - overhanging crux section of Route B, highly exposed in some sections, K4 - rest of Route B and long Route C, K2 but mostly K1 – short, slightly earthy Route A. Ladders and/or iron brackets have been installed to facilitate ascent on steep passages.

Location
The fixed-rope route is located above Zermatt’s train station.

Access
From Zermatt train station through Bahnhofstrasse. After the Alpin Centrum, take the hiking trail towards Edelweiss and Trift. Follow the trail out of the village towards Triftschlucht gorge. The path leading to the fixed-rope route branches off to the right before the Triftbach bridge (approx. 30 minutes).

Descent
After exiting Route C, take the hiking path, which loops back to Zermatt, in a northerly direction (4.5 hrs.).

Elevation gains/losses
Around 650 m ascent/descent, Route A - 320m

Times
Total - 4.5 hrs., Route A alone – 1hr.


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