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Weisshorn (4,505 m.a.s.l.)

The Weisshorn above Randa is considered to be one of the most important 4,000-metre mountains of the Alps. Although the Weisshorn cannot start to compete with the Matterhorn in terms of appearance, the mountain is relatively free-standing, and, with its three ridges and faces, forms a regular pyramid shape, which is actually higher than the Matterhorn. The 150th anniversary of its first ascent occurs in 2011.

Origin of the name
The north-east face of the Weisshorn, which is easily visible from Randa, is always covered with snow.

History / Legends
2011 will be a very special year for Luzius Kuster, the cabin warden of the Weisshornhütte cabin - an anniversary year: the Weisshorn was first climbed 150 years ago, the Weisshornhütte cabin was constructed 111 years ago, and Luzius will also be celebrating his 45th year as cabin warden. He first stayed at the Weisshornhütte cabin for a summer as a 20-year old in 1966 „out of the love of nature“, and he stayed there – not the least due to the generosity of his employer, who has allowed him to be absent during the summer months over several decades.

Height

4,505 m a.s.l.

First climbed

19. August 1861

First climbed by

John Tyndall, Johann Joseph Benet, Ulrich Wenger
The Weisshorn was first climbed on the 19th August 1861 by John Tyndall, Johann Joseph Benet von Steinhaus VS and Ulrich Wenger, via the East Ridge, the normal route nowadays.

 

Information for hikers

Different hiking tips with a view of the mountain

Hike from Zermatt / Randa to the Weisshornhütte cabin
There is the possibility of arriving at Randa with the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn railway.

Cabins on the trail / picnic opportunities

Restaurants in Täsch / Randa, Weisshornhütte cabin

Information for excursions

Information about the various peaks

You have the best view of the Weisshorn from the Sunnegga.
With the Sunnegga Express Zermatt - Sunnegga - Zermatt

Short, easy walks or hikes

Sunnegga - Tuftern - Sunnegga

Information for mountaineers / alpinists

Valley location

Zinal (1,675 m.a.s.l.)
Randa (1,450 m.a.s.l.)

Starting point

Cabane de Tracuit (3,265 m.a.s.l.)
Weisshornhütte cabin (2,932 m.a.s.l.)
Schalijoch bivouac (3,780 m.a.s.l.)

Various routes

East Ridge

  • Difficulty: ZS, III (French scale: AD; with III. UIAA level rock climbing)
  • Duration: 7 hours
  • Starting point: Weisshornhütte (2'932 m)
  • Valley location: Randa (1,408 m)

North-northwest Ridge

  • Difficulty: ZS+, III+ (French scale: AD+; with III+ UIAA level rock climbing)
  • Duration: 8 hours
  • Starting point: Cabane de Tracuit (3'256 m)
  • Valley location: Zinal (1'675 m)

South-west ridge or Schaligrat ridge

  • Difficulty: S, IV (French scale: D; with IV. UIAA level rock climbing)
  • Duration: 5 hours
  • Starting point: Schalijochbiwak (3,780 m)
  • Valley location: Zermatt (1,614 m)

Refreshment areas / mountain cabins

Cabane de Tracuit (3,265 m.a.s.l.)
Weisshornhütte cabin (2,932 m.a.s.l.)

Mountain guides - Experiences / Tips

The rock is often of poor quality on the three major faces of the Weisshorn. The faces that are endangered by rock and ice fall are therefore seldom climbed. Only the Younggrat Ridge, a rib of the North ridge protruding towards the west, the “ Gendarmen” is a relatively safe route. The well known mountaineer from Munich Georg Winkler was killed in August 1888 in one of the early attempts to climb the West Face. Winkler’s remains were lost until 1956, when the Weisshorn glacier finally released his body.



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