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*In the midst of 38 4000

Obergabelhorn

The Obergabelhorn is one of the mighty chain of 4,000-metre mountains between the Nikolai valley and the Val d'Anniviers: from the South-west to the North-east, these are the Dent Blanche, Obergabelhorn, Zinalrothorn and Weisshorn. The North and the South Faces are markedly different, the North Face being completely covered by snow and ice and having a regular pyramid shape, while the South Face, which faces the Nikolai Valley, is rocky, and has the shape of a fork.

Origin of the name
There is a Gendarme (rock pinnacle) to the south-east of the summit, which forms a fork together with the highest point.

Height 4063 m.a.s.l.
First climbed 6th July 1865
First climbed by Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder, Joseph Vianin


First ascent

The mountain was first climbed in 1865 by Adolphus Warburton Moore, Horace Walker and Jakob Anderegg, a forerunner of modern alpinism. As with the Matterhorn, there was also a race to be the first to reach the summit of this mountain. Only one day later, Francis Douglas, Peter Taugwalder and Joseph Viennin also climbed the Obergabelhorn. Francis Douglas was killed one week later during the first ascent of the Matterhorn.

History / legends
We are looking for a true story about this mountain. Send us a story and, with a bit of luck, you could win an evening meal in Zermatt to the value of CHF 150.--!
The best story among all those submitted will be the winner. One attempt per participant only.
E-Mail: valerie.perren@zermatt.ch

 




Information for hikers

Different hiking tips
with a view of the mountain

Matterhorn Trail
Schwarzsee paradise - Zermatt

Information for excursions

Information about the various peaks

You have the best view of the Obergabelhorn from the Sunnegga .
With the Sunnegga Express: Zermatt – Sunnegga - Zermatt

Short, easy walks  or hikes

Sunnegga – Tuftern - Sunnegga

 

Information for mountaineers / alpinists

Valley location

Zinal (1675 m.a.s.l.)
Zermatt (1620 m.a.s.l.)

Starting point

Rothornhütte cabin (3,198 m.a.s.l.)
Cabane Du Mountet (2,886 m.a.s.l.)
Arben Bivouac (3,224 m.a.s.l.)

Various routes

The normal route leads from the Rothornhütte cabin (3,198 m) via Triftgletscher glacier to the shoulder of the Wellenkuppe (3,909 m), over this with some light rock climbing (III-), and then follows the pronounced East-north-east Ridge over the large Gendarme (the Klucknerturm, with fixed rope) to the summit. This is a combined high-altitude tour (III+, Eis bis 50°, AD-). Other interesting ascents are the Arbengrat Ridge (Westsüdwestgrat, III+, AD) and the heavily glaciated and seldom attempted North Face (Ice 55°).

Refreshment areas / mountain cabins

Rothornhütte cabin (3,198 m.a.s.l.)
Cabane Du Mountet (2,886 m.a.s.l.)
Arben Bivouac (3,224 m.a.s.l.)



Zermatt Tourismus | Tel +41 27 966 81 00 | info@zermatt.ch