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*In the midst of 38 4000

Schwarzhorn (4,321 m a.s.l.)

The Schwarzhorn, or Corno Nero, located to the south of the Ludwigsspitze, was the last peak of the Monte Rosa massif to be conquered. It belongs to the extended list of 4000-metre peaks, as does the Balmenhorn. Its free-standing height is only a mere 50 metres, even if the mountain top is black and strikingly prominent. No fewer than 12 summits in the Alps bear the name Schwarzhorn and the Schwarzhorn in the Monte Rosa massif is in fact the highest but by no means the best known. It can be reached on skis in winter and spring.

Origin of the name
The rocky summit stands out black against the other peaks.

History / legends
Despite its impressive height, the Schwarzhorn is not a very striking peak, rising only slightly above the top of the ridge. It is located between the Colle Vincent and Colle Zurbriggen, not far from the Balmenhorn.

Height

4,321 m a.s.l.

First climbed

18 August 1873

First climbed by

Marco Maglionini, Albert de Rothschild, Eduard Cupelin, Peter Knubel, Nikolaus Knubel




Information for mountaineers / alpinists

Valley location

Alagna Valsesia (1,190 m a.s.l.)

Starting point

Capanna Gnifetti (3,611 m a.s.l.)
Rifugio Città di Mantova (3,498 m a.s.l.)

Various routes

The most commonly used trail is a glacier tour with rock sections, leading from the Italian side via the Gnifetti Hut (3,647 m a.s.l.) through the north-west flank and over the Zurbriggenjoch to the summit. Gradients of up to 43° have to be mastered on the firn, with rock sections in the summit area presenting a maximum of Grade 1 difficulty. Total hiking time: 2½ – 3 hours from the Gnifetti Hut.

The ascent via the south-west flank and the Vincentjoch presents Grade 1+ difficulties and leads over firn with gradients up to 40°. Starting from the Gnifetti Hut, this route is also primarily a glacier tour. Hiking time 2½ hours.

Refreshment points / mountain cabins

Capanna Gnifetti (3,611 m a.s.l.)
Rifugio Città di Mantova (3,498 m a.s.l.)

Mountain guide notes / tips

Both ascents can also be made as ski tours in winter and spring, with a ski depot below the summit.


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